The family and wedding time is over. So, after all the eating and vodka drinking (yes, there is always lots of it), it was time to be active again. Hiking in Poland is very popular amongst the locals, and there are lots of trails to choose from. After some research online, I found a 150km trail near were my family lives. The Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail.
Originally, I was planning to head to the Zakopane to hike a polish mountain, however everybody told me it would be very busy, as it is August and therefore a holiday month. So I changed my plans.
I was planning to walk only parts of the Szlak Orlich Gniazd Trail. 80km in three days.. and gee those three days were tough!
Read more below…
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Fort Hlucin – Benesova Line (Darkovice)
But first, before leaving for the walk I spend a morning with my dad visiting a historical WW2 site in Darkovice, Czech Republic. It is a museum and area with bunkers and tanks belonging to the Czechoslovakian border defence line built between 1935-38. It was quite interesting to see and we had some fun!
I believe the Germans used the bunkers to defence the Soviets later during the war (can’t find any information on the internet however). Very interesting spot!
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Hiking in Poland – the Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail
It was time for my hike! I had my Backpack packed and was ready to walk. The Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail (or Eagles’ Nests trail, which was built as a defence system) is a 163.90 km tourist walking trail, extending from Częstochowa to Krakau. Along the route there are plenty of ruins and castles to see, built mostly on hilltops, surrounded by inaccessible limestone rocks (hence the name Eagles’ Nests).
Funnily I hiked another Eagle’s Nest in Germany, to the Hitlers Holiday house – Hiking to Kehlsteinhaus.
This time, hiking in Poland, will be quite interesting walking through the the polish forest and some little polish towns. Given that I was planning to do a short hike, I decided to walk for three days only, approx. 80km. And so I did. I passed churches and historical memorials as well as fields and railways. The flat landscape made it a quite easy walk, but I had long walking days.
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Day 1 – 29 km
My dad drove me to my starting point at the Olsztyn Castle from the 14th century with a quick stop in Częstochowa. The city Częstochowa is visited mainly by many pilgrims to see the famous Pauline monastery of Jasna Góra, a home to the Black Madonna. It is quite stunning place. Read more here if you are interested.
It’s a shame I couldn’t go into the Monastery as I wasn’t dressed properly. I was already wearing my hiking top and shorts, which is clearly not ideal for visiting religious monuments.
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After a quick lunch in Olsztyn I was ready to go. It was already 1pm and I had approx. 25 km ahead of me, not quite knowing what to expect on this hike and the Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail. The trail itself started at the Olsztyn Castle marked with the red sign but after 500m I was lost. One wrong turn and I did a big loop that added 40min to my walk before I was on the right track again. Great start!
When studying the trail and my map I thought I would make it all the way to the next Mirów Castle. That said, I didn’t book any accomodation because I wasn’t sure how far I would get. Half way through, I realised the path sends you criss crossing rather than just straight to the next point so after 29km, I stopped in a little village Trzebniów. No point pushing too hard.
The walk was very sandy and went a lot through the forest which was great. I just love the simplicity of the nature, the peacefulness and the fresh air. Hiking in Poland has its beauty for sure!
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Where to sleep
Once I arrived at the village, I was ready for a nice dinner. However, there was nothing to find in this little place except a small convenience store. No Hotel either. I considered calling for a cab to get to the next town, but it would have taken too long. Then I asked some locals if they feel like driving me, but they already were into their beer. At last, after asking around, I have been pointed towards a house that had rooms to sleep in. Pretty basic with shared bathroom but it was ok. A quick shop at the convenience store to grab some food (or more snacks) and it was finally time to relax. More or less.
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Day 2 – 27 km
I woke up quite early and couldn’t sleep anymore. So at 7.15am I was on my way already, walkig towards my next stop. This time I mapped my trail a little bit different. Still following the Szlank Orlich Gniazd trail at most times, however, I added a few shortcuts. It was time to see some castles today.
After 12km I finally made it to the first Mirów Castle. More ruins than a castle, it was standing quite grand on the hill, surrounded by the tall limestone rocks. Beautiful scenery and landscape.
The Castle Bobolice was only 2km further and it was more complete (restored) than the others. I had to laugh when I saw the Ghost Sign!
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I made it my goal to reach the third castle which was another 11km, the Bąkowiec Castle. After all, I had all day, and I could take my time. The Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail is not going anywhere. It is one of the beauties of walking in the nature. The freedom of stopping when you want and where you want. With nobody around. Just me and the fields.
Where to sleep (again)
Due to the limited (or non existing) hotels in the little villages I found an accomodation a little bit of the track this time (Zawiercie). Once I arrived at the third castle, I had enough and was ready to call it a day again. I had to walk a few more Kilometres to the next road, and then I hitch hiked. I think it was the first time, ever. A lovely couple who did a day walk stopped and dropped me off at my hotel. I was exhausted and no where near the initial finish line.
Another day completed, one more to go. What adventure awaits me the next day?
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Day 3 – 25 km
More rested, my walk started at the Podzamcze Castle, 10km away from the hotel, so I caught a cab to get me there. The Podzamcze Castle was stunning and again very tall. I aimed quite high today to achieve my goal and was planning to make it to the Rabsztyn Castle near Olkusz. But I never made it.
Well, there was once again no accommodation to be found around that area so after 20km walking (and still 10km away from Olkurz) it was time for plan B. There was a train station in the next small village (Jaroszowiec Olkuski) which would take me closer to the hotel I booked. And the only hotel I could find was even further away in Dąbrowa Górnicza. It must be wedding season in Poland.
Almost at the end of the Szlak Orlich Gniazd Trail
So, I made it to the train station however no trains for three hours. The little town looked so deserted, it was hard to imagine that there are trains going at all. Time to stop a car again. It didn’t take long and a lovely lady drove me closer to my hotel, to a little town Sławków. I tried to call a taxi, but again, it was way to complicated and would take too long so I caught the local bus. 40min later I was at the hotel and exhausted.
I finished the Szlak Orlich Gniazd trail. My feet were sore and swollen, but I felt great. The next day my cousin picked me up for more family time. And vodka of course!
Hiking in Poland, or at least the Szlak Orlich Gniazd Trail, wasn’t as straight forward as I thought. But, nevertheless, it is more about the experience and adventure, than following a certain trail. And a workout of course.
I get asked all the time if my legs get sore, etc? Yes, of course they do. But the more I do the walking and hiking, the better my legs are and the more they can take. That said, my feet weren’t as damaged as after my very first 5 day hike – Konig Ludwig Weg – in Germany!! xx
Extra photos of different buildings that capture my eye
(post 45)
